A Fusion of Math and Art by Diarra Bousso

Diarra Bousso’s experiences as a mathematician, artisan and former Wall Street Trader have led to the creation of Diarrablu - her lifestyle brand. Her designs showcase her culture with every detail and piece - it tells a story.

“I grew up in Senegal, and I wanted to be the perfect student…. I was never a cool girl or an ‘It girl’, I was a nerd,” Bousso told POPSUGAR. Bousso comes from a family of artisans. “In the summers when I would go to my dad’s village, I’d see that work and it’s so rich and beautiful”, she said. Between splitting her time visiting her dad’s village and attending a private French school in the city, Bousso explained she wasn’t sure how to connect between the two worlds. “I always knew that I was going to do something at the intersection of those two worlds, but I didn’t know how to do it”.

She moved to the United States where she attended graduate school at Stanford University, graduating with a degree in math and education research. Bousso didn’t want to go down either path and found herself stuck trying to figure out how to blend her background in math with her love of fashion. She started doodling during her spare time and realized, “ I can doodle, and I can also write a math code to do the doodles for me”. While it isn’t common for designers to code their designs, Bousso was creating her own rules.

“Once you write a couple of equations, by just changing a few numbers, you can create a new print very quickly. So it makes the process of drawing now very efficient because you can draw one thing, then actually create thousands by just changing the numbers”, she explained.

The equation that Bousso writes creates Afrocentric shapes and prints that also tells stories, centering on the diversity of Africa. She described the process as empowering. Bousso owns the production of the prints and no longer has to attend markets or trade shows for fabrics. Also, she has an approach that allows her to save money without washing fabric. “Algorithms allow me to solve a very important problem in fashion in terms of sustainability. They also allow me to really explore creativity beyond what’s available, because there are no limits to what you can make”.

This new technique has not only allowed her to engage with her audience but, to also create polls to find out which designs they prefer. “We produce what people want. There’s no excess inventory”, she said. Once she has the pattern in fabric form, she cuts it to maximize the amount of pieces produced; creating a dress, a necklace, shoes and a face mask from three yards of fabric. “We keep it iterating until there is nothing left”, she explained.

Bousso’s designs are made for both luxury and comfort. Her collections are endless and each design takes you to a place of peace, freedom and stillness.

Photo Credits: POPSUGAR

Report: Juana Norales

Cushnie's Goodbye

The effects of a nationwide quarantine have devastated the fashion label Cushnie to the point at which its closure was made official in late October. The tragic end to one of the rare high-fashion brands in America helmed by a black woman brings into question the industry's promises to employ more racially diverse talent.

Even eponymous owner Carly Cushnie herself began as a co-founder alongside Michelle Ochs before the latter’s departure in 2018. As her solo career flourished, she remained vocal about how influential positions in the fashion industry are almost entirely occupied by white men. Devoted to her morals to the very end, Cushnie vowed to continue fighting for racial equity in the next stage of her profession.

The dissolution of Cushnie begs the question of when the next black female designer will rise to such eminence, if at all. Major fashion labels have implemented programs that will provide more opportunities for creators of color, and the efficacy of these changes will be determined in part by the success of future black female designers.

Photo Credits: Vogue

Report: Nia Hunt

A Long-Awaited Princess Diana Inspired Collection

New York based-label Rowing Blazers is commemorating the style of the late Princess Diana for the Fall/Winter 2020 collection. Some of Diana’s most notable looks, as well as other influenced pieces, are featured in the 80s inspired collection.

A number of items worn by Princess Diana have been recreated in collaboration with the original designers throughout the collection. This includes her “I’m A Luxury” sweatshirt, which was reproduced with Gyles Brandreth, co-creator of the original alongside George Hostler. Another one of her eye-catching pieces is the “sheep sweater”, designed by Joanna Osborne and Sally Muir’s Warm & Wonderful Knitwear label and worn by Diana to Prince Charles’ polo matches. Although this piece has been copied before, Rowing Blazers’ FW20 is the first time the original sweater has been produced since 1994.

The FW20 collection features a selection of French terry sweats and t-shirts, rugby shirts inspired by climbing culture, student societies and a range of patchwork tweed items. Other cultural references include pieces embellished with the “Are You A Preppie?” poster, while Rowing Blazers has also reinterpreted the Sherry Top Sider CVO into two new colorways. 

Rowing Blazers creative director Jack Carlson explained the collaborations, “Both of the sweater designs have been copied or referenced by others over the years (sometimes without crediting or acknowledging the original designers). But collaborating with the original designers is exactly what makes this so special to me. When I was little, in the early “90s, my family lived in Hampstead in North London, and my mother had one of the original sheep sweaters. It looks as great now as it did then”.

Photo Credits: Hypebeast

Report: Juana Norales

Costuming Catwoman

Zöe Kravitz winning the role of the iconic Batman villain Catwoman has roused conversations about her forthcoming portrayal of the character, one of the topics of discussion being her wardrobe. There have been glimpses of the costume design months prior, and now the newly released images from the set of The Batman provide a more definite tone for Kravitz’s villainous style.

The first trailer for The Batman featured Catwoman in an outfit that viewers found underwhelming. A torn ski mask and a uncouth cat burglar bodysuit seemed to be a massive downgrade from the more sleek, alluring fashion sense of past depictions of the femme fatale. Nevertheless, Kravitz praising costume designer Jacqueline Durran for the progression of the character’s personal style indicated that the shoddiness was temporary.

The latest images from the film pictured Kravitz clad in leather boots, a trench coat, and a hat, affirming that this iteration of Catwoman will be just as characteristically seductive as her predecessors. While this ensemble was likely the plainclothes attire of Catwoman’s secret identity, Selina Kyle, the coquettishness on display is undoubtably a harbinger of a far more memorable super-villain costume.

Photo Credits: W Magazine & Vogue

Report: Nia Hunt

Black Fashion Fair

Antoine Gregory is a paragon of black solidarity in fashion, using his passion for the art form and immense social media influence to innovate the Black Fashion Fair.

Gregory’s major internet presence began with him joining Twitter in 2012 with a nascent academic career as a fashion merchandising management and fabric styling student at the Fashion Institute of Technology. He sought to interact with black designers, a vigor that was impassioned by his dissatisfaction with the lack of black designers on the 2016 New York Fashion Week schedule. Thus, he took the initiative by showcasing black designers in a Twitter thread, which became so popular that he dedicated his online presence to championing such underrated talent.

In the vein of the once-successful Ebony Fashion Fair, Gregory created the Black Fashion Fair, a digital trade show through which fashion buyers and consumers have the privilege of patronizing over 20 black brands. He is also advising these brands and assisting them with their commercial presentation. Initially a physical event being forced onto an online venue turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Gregory realized that the internet is the most effective means of connecting with one’s audience. As further proof of his noble intentions, the only monetary contributions he requests of the designers are 15% of proceeds, which will fund educational programs teaching the youth to design.

Even at the conclusion of the Black Fashion Fair, Gregory will continue to release different collections’ exclusive pieces each month. Additionally, his website contains a directory of black designers, thereby familiarizing the public with these names year-round.

Gregory aspires to expand to hosting galas, exhibits and trunk shows - with the success of his social media ventures, those goals will likely come to fruition.

Photo Credits: Complex

Report: Nia Hunt

Marc Jacobs Releases a Polysexual Collection

While gender and sexuality continues to be a pivotal topic in the year 2020, designer Marc Jacobs is not holding back in his recent collection that he just dropped which celebrates polysexuality. (A polysexual person is someone who is attracted to multiple genders and identities.) The new collection titled “Heaven” focuses on teenage daydreams, alienation nation, queer youth, candy ravers, apocalypse sugar and toxic shock valley girls while playing homage to the films of the new queer pioneer Gregg Araki, the pushy sculptures of Mike Kelley and artist Cindy Sherman. The shopper can decide what is right for them as the items are not intended toward a specific gender.

This correlates to Marc Jacobs’ messaging for his audience, which goes back to the designer’s past themes exploring subversion, girls who are boys and boys who are girls, those who are neither, and other multifaceted characters in the Marc Jacobs world. In the past, the designer has touched on gender fluidity in all spaces from fashion to beauty: He has advocated for men wearing makeup, spoken about being boxed in by labels and identifications and is a proud feminist. In the world of Marc Jacobs, you can be whoever you want and ignore societal norms of what’s expected.

The “Heaven” collection celebrates individuality and enigmatic personalities in all forms. The campaign was shot by Larissa Hofmann and styled by Danielle Emerson. Up and coming stars such as Iris Law, Jyrell Roberts, Vegyn, fashion darling Lily McMenany and more are featured in the ads. Shoichi Aoki, creator of legendary street style bible FRUiTS, created the Marc Jacobs lookbook and best of all the “Heaven” line starts at an affordable price point. Shop the new releases.

Photo Credits: Marie Claire

Report: Juana Norales

Lego x Levi Collaboration

Lego and Levi’s have partnered up this fall to design a new collection taking art to the next level in fashion.

The new and exclusive line features Levi’s notable signature pieces such as trucker jackets and straight jeans but takes things up a notch with a playful twist: personalized legos! The well-known denim brand’s classics are decorated with flexible base plates that you can snap Lego tiles onto to put together your own piece- or you can allow the designs to have their own spotlight.

The nostalgic Lego x Levi collection will also include hoodies, bags, hats and even a cargo vest, all with fun Lego-inspired details such as colorful buttons and a bright-red Lego patch to substitute the Levi’s traditional leather version. “This is such a fun collaboration celebrating self-expression, creativity and nostalgia,” Karyn Hillman, chief product officer for Levi Strauss & Co., said in a press release. “With the customizable base plates, Levi’s is now literally a new blank canvas for Lego play.”

The exclusive line was released on Oct. 1 on Levi’s website and in select Levi’s stores and every customizable purchase features a bag of 110 Lego Dots, which will allow you to accessorize your pieces while bringing out your inner child. Check out the new Lego x Levi’s collaboration.

Photo Credits: POPSUGAR

Report: Juana Norales

Homemade Black Girl Magic

“Black Girl Magic” has been conjured in the home of Alissa Bertrand, an Atlanta designer whose three daughters modeled her gorgeous fashions. Bertrand’s creative solution to balancing childcare during the pandemic is an impeccable blend of colorful youthfulness and vintage elegance. From reused material, she has woven picturesque designs that further beautify the girls’ natural Afrocentric majesty. By depicting brown-skinned children flaunting their afros in their glamorous attire, the resulting photos affirm that black features are symbols of beauty on par with the vibrant, aesthetically pleasing patterns that are also on display.

As of this past summer, Bertrand’s homemade children's clothing has earned her a sizable audience of over 20,000 Instagram followers. While Bertrand has voiced concern about her skyrocketing popularity merely being the product of a fleeting interest in black businesses, the prominent blackness of her brand is still an important quality to emphasize. Unambiguously black children parading their mother’s hand-crafted dresses and ensembles is positive representation that will undoubtedly resonate with customers of the same racial identity. Bertrand has always strived to depict the kinds of images that inspire confidence in young girls, as she was deprived of them in her own youth, and at last that aspiration has come into fruition.

Photo Credits: Vogue

Report: Nia Hunt

Comme des Garçons Meets North Face Japan

Comme des Garçons’ newest collaboration with The North Face Japan is a unity between two drastically different brands resulting in a chic end product. The collection consists of a hoodie, T-shirt, and dress shirt, each marked with The North Face logo and Comme des Garçons’s heart icon. The products being sold exclusively by the latter brand have an additional “CdG” emblem on them. The goal of this collaboration is a common one among fashion labels, which is to provide clothing that is both warm and stylish.

To appreciate the impressive synchronization between Comme des Garçons and The North Face, it is important to understand their stark differences. Comme des Garçons is a high-fashion French and Japanese label whose garments are bizarre and experimental yet classy and elegant. Meanwhile, The North Face has been providing rock climbers, hikers, and other outdoor adventurers with durable layers that withstand the elements. Thus, by allying with The North Face, Comme des Garçons will reach a more casually-outfitted audience while in turn giving outdoorsmen attire a more avant-garde flair.

Photo Credits: COMPLEX

Report: Nia Hunt

I Like Those Balenciagas

Cardi B’s lyric “I like those Balenciagas, the ones that look like socks” turned out to be a rather prophetic one, as the superstar rapper is now the face of the esteemed brand’s Winter 2020 campaign. She announced the delightful news on Instagram, recalling her Times Square billboard and declaring that her next one will be on grand display in the fashion capital of the world, Paris.

Cardi B becoming the centerpiece of Balenciaga’s newest campaign was the brilliant idea of creative director Denma Gvasalia, as well as the first celebrity collaboration in her career. 

Being constrained by quarantine measures unexpectedly brought out Gvasalia’s creativity in preparing the shoot itself. Naturally, the photos were shot in Cardi B’s residence, and the creative team made the most of the environment. Gvasalia dressed Cardi B in a sleek black gown from her Fall 2020 collection, and in place of a typical glamorous studio set was a backyard strewn with children's toys and a white Balenciaga Neo Classic bag. 

These contrasting images, intentionally or not, symbolize the resourcefulness and artistry of fashion creatives that prevail in defiance of the challenging restrictions imposed upon them.

Photo Credits: Harper’s Bazaar

Report: Nia Hunt

The Telfar Shopping Bag: A Symbol of Progressivism

Telfar is a brand renowned for being affordable and inclusive while remaining prestigious. After 15 years in business, Telfar is being embraced by public figures such as Solange and Bella Hadid, proving that the brand is on the cusp of mainstream recognition. The label is rooted in inclusivity, as Liberian-American designer Telfar Clemens creates attire intended for all genders. One exceptional product exemplifies the company's mission statement, “not for you, for everyone”: the coveted Telfar bag, the creation that brought its label to prominence.

The Telfar shopping bag’s 2014 debut was met with widespread acclaim due to it being the first of its kind that simultaneously black-owned and gender-neutral. The bag’s groundbreaking success won Telfar the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, the prize money of which funded the creation of new, Bloomingdale’s-inspired bags of various sizes. Most emblematic of the bags’ inherent progressivism is Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez’s enjoyment of them, which she proudly displayed on her Instagram. A politician reputed for championing social justice causes, Ocasio-Cortez commends Telfar for being a fellow New Yorker of color having earned such fame and success.

Telfar’s growing eminence is due in part to the political landscape influencing consumers’ perception of the label. The encouragement to support black business increases with each passing year, a growing number of fashion enthusiasts continues to experiment with gender expression through clothing, and now the peak of the Black Lives Matter movement has transformed the public’s understanding of societal racism. Thus, Telfar’s loyalty to uplifting it’s more marginalized demographics is intrinsic to its rising fame.

Photo Credits: Getty Images

Report: Nia Hunt

Supima Design Competition 2020: A New Generation of Designers

The 2020 Supima Design Competition is shaping up to be a particularly inclusive one of its kind, as this year there is an emphatic drive towards racial diversity. Law Roach, the fashion expert who has advised of the likes of Zendaya and Kerry Washington, happily accepted his role as the host of the competition upon learning that Supima was working with historically black academic institutions. Roach’s excitement to help develop the careers of fashion newcomers only swelled at the prospect of supporting designers of color.

The contestants for the 2020 Supima Design Competition not only come from esteemed colleges and universities, but also present new ideas that are likely to revolutionize the fashion world. Hailing from the Rhode Island School of Design, Kyra Buenviaje has taken inspiration from the current coronavirus-ridden landscape to create dresses that flow down to the floor and pleated jackets. Meanwhile, Los Angeles’s Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising alum Sakura Mizutani channeled her fascination with nature into portraying the four seasons through sculpted blouses and fabric blouses. Originally studying mathematics and engineering, Terrence Zhou’s applied his areas of study to building elaborate fashions. Jennie Nguyen of Kent State put her valuing of sustainability into practice with her minimalist designs built from recycled material, and being named in Vogue as one of FIT’s most exemplary designers is a strong start to Jenny Feng’s career. Lastly, a recent graduate, Drexel University, print designer Amanda Forastieri has a particularly colorful interpretation of sustainability in her Utopia collection.

Photo Credits: Vogue, L.A. Times

Report: Nia Hunt

7-20 is A1

Until the creation of the Fenty brand, she was known as the unprecedented pop star, Rihanna. Robin Rihanna Fenty is one of the most successful musicians of her time, as her passion for making music, talent for performing, and ability to connect with fans have made her a nonstop sensation in the industry.

It was not until she dipped her toes in a new pond that we realized there is much more talent than meets the eye. Rihanna has recently ventured into a new industry; fashion. With the conception of her fashion brand Fenty, in addition to her cosmetic brand Fenty Beauty, Rihanna explores her appetite for makeup and luxury fashion. The collections are just as unique and tasteful as you would expect them to be coming from Rihanna, with flavor and spunk that are too irresistible to pass up.

Thus far, Fenty has been known for its show stopping lingerie collection, titled Savage Fenty. The sexy, sophisticated yet fun pieces are high quality and compliment any body type. But, there’s a new Fenty in town, and her name is 7-20. In collaboration with Amina Muaddi, this fierce female duo captures the boldness and strength of women in modern shoe designs. The collection is especially admirable as it celebrates the creativity and genius of artistic women, and embodies the electrifying energy maintained throughout the entire Fenty brand.

With designs that include square toe soles, braided straps and mesh fabrics, the collection has the ability to fulfill the desire of every woman’s closet. One of the most admirable aspects of the 7-20 collection is the heel itself, the only piece of the different silhouettes that remains the same, designed to hold up each shoe and support the strong woman who is wearing it.

Though this is the last release of the Fenty Summer collection, it is the first ever release of shoes for the brand. The designs are breathable and allow the wearer to remain comfortable in the heat of summer, but by no means fall short of attraction or originality. It comes as no surprise that Rihanna and Amina’s creativity and brilliance have created Fenty’s newest, and perhaps most desirable, collection.

All photo's originate from the Fenty website.

Report: Alexandra Donnelly

Reese Cooper’s Spring 2021 Collection

Reese Cooper has always been a designer with pure talent since his young age. He’s someone that filled his past with solo lunches at school, researching and saving up money to buy from one of his favorite fashion brands BAPE. From there he began to create a bright future for himself. Now today we are looking at his Spring 2021 fashion line that holds very unique pieces. There were designs filled with pockets, splashes of hunters orange and forest greens; a lot of outdoor wear vibes. Let's take a closer look at them, shall we? One favorite design of mine was this light blue dress that looked as if there was a scene in the woods imprinted on it. Truly stunning and different from your usual.

Other than the bright and beautiful hunters orange and dark greens we saw, there were also a lot of blues as well. We saw several long sleeve blue cover ups along with cargo pants that just scream outdoors. Each and every design was inspired by what he was feeling during the lockdown, after Cooper was feeling a little overwhelmed like many of us were feeling as well. He would drive down to a lake to clear his mind and soak up some nature and he wanted to represent that in this collection. This collection is a mix of street wear fashion, but also flexible enough to wear and enjoy the outdoors.

Interestingly enough, because of the recent pandemic, Cooper was unable to do the runway he originally planned. But it turned out to make it more real than it could’ve ever been. He was able to gather people closest to him, friends and collaborators and have this “runway” take place at a small steam in Thousand Oaks, California. Hence, the name of his collection being called “River Runs Through”. The turn of events went well with the theme of his collection.

A great documentary that may be worth the watch and shows Reese Cooper’s drive and dedication to his work is called “We’re not particularly talented, we just try hard.” Despite the name of the documentary, Cooper is most definitely talented. His collection is opening up doors to endless possibilities of what the world of fashion can look like. I believe this is only the beginning for Reese Cooper. Looking forward to more of his work!

Photo Credits: Vogue

Report: Melissa Adragna (@melissa_adragna)

Art Meets Fashion

Dior’s Summer 2021 Men’s Collection is a harmonious fusion of art and fashion, brought to fruition by brand creative director Kim Jones and Ghanian artist Amoako Boafo. What began in 2019 as both creatives meeting at the Rubell Museum in Miami and admiring each other’s work culminated in a collaboration that is, as described on Dior’s website, “a celebration of identity, of the power of creativity, of art’s ability to transport.”

Amoako Boafo’s paintings are an inspired basis for the Dior menswear collection, with pieces radiating in colors, patterns, and embroideries reminiscent of the artwork. The most noteworthy of these creations is a jacquard adorned with brushstrokes in emulation of the canvases in Boafo’s own studio. Dior proudly displayed their new collaborative collection in the form of a video exploring Boafo’s Ghanian studio and premiering the fashions themselves. The promotional videos were directed by Jackie Nickerson, with Chris Cunningham having edited and soundtracked the project.

Boafo’s alliance with Dior is quite the milestone in a career filled with accolades such as the 2017 Walter Koschatzky Art Prize. In fact, the Rubell Museum was one of several that housed his masterpieces. Boafo’s art consistently and brilliantly tackles the subject of toxic masculinity, so his translation of this concept to high fashion is both aesthetically pleasing and thought-provoking.

Photo credits:

https://www.dior.com/en_us/mens-fashion/shows/summer-2021-mens-collection

Report: Nia Hunt

Browne and Sumney

The sudden worldwide shift to Digital Fashion Weeks has engendered confusion and ambivalence among designers and fashion brands, particularly in regards to the content of their promotional videos. The general conflict has been whether such videos should be visually appealing presentations or explorations of the inner workings of these fashion labels. Thom Browne appears to have chosen the former, as his newest video is that of musician Moses Sumney performing while wearing a white sequin wrap skirt from the upcoming Spring 2021 collection. Despite this video’s minimalist setting, Brown has striven to create a project that embodies innovation and artistry.

Sumney became acquainted with Browne at the 2018 Vanity Fair Oscars after-party while wearing a skirt suit by the designer. They developed rapport with each other over the course of several more fashion events, leading Browne to then propose his film idea to Sumney. Sumney, enamored with the 1924 Olympics-style skirt, eagerly agreed to the project—on the caveat that he would direct it.

Sumney’s involvement with the film perfectly complemented Browne’s grand artistic vision, as he brought local talent to a major fashion brand. He recruited a film crew in Asheville, including a personal friend debuting as a producer. Sumney comes from a humble background himself, and therefore he understands the struggle of navigating the glamor and exclusivity of the fashion industry while underprivileged. By employing a local film crew, he hopes to encourage major brands to extend opportunities to lesser-known creators.

Sumney also ponders the cultural implications of a black man proudly outfitted in high fashion especially during a time of such racial tumult. He contrasts his statuesque black body gleaming in the spotlight with the toppling of statues that deify America’s racist historical figures. Sumney admires the film’s subtle brilliance and gladly anticipates the discussion of race that will undoubtedly arise from audiences after viewing the final product.

Photo credit: https://www.vogue.com/article/moses-sumney-thom-browne-film

Report: Nia Hunt

Jacquemus Debuts His Latest Collection, “L’Amour”

Since the outbreak of Coronavirus, many fashion brands had to consider how to proceed operations when runway shows were temporarily put on hold. This led to industry-wide investigation into brands’ sustainability efforts and activism platforms, of which quite a few were criticized for. Although some fashion weeks have been cancelled and designers announce their own plans for collection calendars, there are a select few that are able and continue to do shows in person. One of the brands happens to be Jacquemus, who on July 16 debuted the collection, “L’Amour.”

Incorporating both menswear and womenswear, the show was held in a field of wheat just outside Paris in Us with the walkway winding through the fields. Invited to this exclusive event included close friends, family, and even editors, who all abided by the universal six-feet apart rule. The collection itself features the staple neutral palette Jacquemus has become known for, adorned with the strappy details that have been seen in past collections. It also showcased summer staples such as crop tops and midi skirts. The menswear of the show had similar hues and prints, reflective of their motive to be more sustainable. In doing this, Jacquemus has been able to slow down the process of making both menswear and womenswear for their team and reduce shows overall. The majority of the in-person fashion events were held in Milan, as the only other Parisian designer to hold a live show was Olivier Rousteing for Balmain.

The location for “L’Amour” has drawn similarities from Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2020 collection “Coup de Soleil.” This collection was also in a field, but full of lavenders, a touch that has defined a part of what makes Jacquemus the way it is. With simple, but universal designs in a mostly neutral palette and the occasional color, the brand’s designs have become popular among celebrities, influencers, and fashion lovers alike. Not only are their designs popular, but Jacquemus’ efforts when it comes to activism are also praised. Vocal during the recent Black Lives Matter events, Jacquemus has put themselves up there as a brand that is willing to fight for the cause and will continue to do so. A living aesthetic in itself, combined with its focus on being conscious about the world has helped Jacquemus become the brand it is today, and will continue to rise as the years go on.

Photo Credit: Hood Couture Mag, Galerie Magazine.

Report: Charlene Piccio

Masculine While Feminine

French womenswear designer Simon Porte Jacquemus has ventured outside of his comfort zone by branching out to men's fashion. Not only will he be designing clothing for a different gender, but he will also be diverting from the more extravagant styles that defined his female garments. Jacquemus understands that menswear prioritizes utility above fashionability, as exemplified by his own wardrobe. Dating back to his humble beginnings as a farm boy in southeastern France, his own everyday wear has since often consisted of casual articles of clothing like ragged hoodies, unbuttoned shirts, and baggy shorts. Now, he has translated his personal style into a menswear line dominated by rolled-up shirts and cozy hoodies.

Jacquemus added one more personalized touch to his new male fashion: his own gayness. Despite the emphasis on durability, he has been rather liberal with his use of floral patterns and bright colors for his clothes. These design choices are simultaneously reflective Jacquemus’s own tastes while, intentional or not, defiant of toxic masculinity. This new line has the potential to set a trend, as it is respondent to men’s typical shopping habits while tacitly encouraging consumers to embrace their femininity. Better yet, Jacquemus’s menswear may prove that masculinity can be colorful and flowery.

Photo credit:

https://hypebeast.com/2020/7/jacquemus-menswear-collection-masculinity-design

Report: Nia Hunt

How Romeo Hunte Is Quietly Redefining What It Means to Be an American Brand

Romeo Hunte’s journey since launching his namesake label in 2013 may have been impressively considered, but even he wasn’t prepared for the challenges that the current pandemic would bring. Hunte says, “There were a lot of ups and downs over the past few months. My grandfather passed, and a few other members of the team had family members pass too. We just kind of huddled together, working from home, working very odd hours, and I think it built us up to be a stronger team—as a family, we understood everyone's going through this, and were always checking in on each other.”

After all, if there’s one thing that defines Hunte’s ascent since launching his label in 2013—aside from his signature deconstructed outerwear—it’s the strong sense of community he’s developed. This doesn’t just include the illustrious list of celebrities, from Beyoncé to Zendaya, who have stepped out in his pieces, but the regular clients for whom he makes custom looks on a made to order basis. “We really don’t like to waste, so that on its own meant we weren't sitting on stock,” he says. “We started asking, what does our customer actually want right now?” The natural answer, aside from the more flamboyant pieces still available on his website, was a range of face masks—a product that, for Hunte, fulfilled more than just a practical need. “The feedback from the masks has simply been that they’ve brightened up their day when they come in the mail, and I felt that’s the best thing I could do at this moment.”

As Hunte and his team began to plan their next steps post-lockdown, however, another national tragedy occurred; namely, the killing of George Floyd. Throughout the Black Lives Matter protests that followed, Hunte has been keenly observing the fashion industry’s reckoning with its historic underrepresentation of Black designers and creatives. “I think there’s a lot more work to be done,” Hunte says. “When I was a child, fashion was something that I always dreamed of doing, but it's challenging to step into an industry and feel like there aren't that many people that look like you, or share the same inspiration, to feel like you’ve been in the industry delivering each season and it’s overlooked. A lot of things are not so inclusive as they're promoted, sometimes it feels like, as a designer, you only really get noticed during Black History Month on those things. It can be frustrating, but I think I’ve learned to try not to bring emotion into the business. Hunte says, “I'm just hoping that it opens up doors for younger designers to feel like there's a place for them. Not just me, but the Kerbys, the LaQuans, the Victors, and the Telfars of the world. We can inspire a whole generation of designers to feel like: Wow, I could actually do it. When I was a young designer, I didn't have that many designers to look up like to really inspire me.”

The Gap Collaboration That Never Was

Kanye West’s announcement of his upcoming partnership with Gap led many to wonder about the company’s previously announced collaboration with the brand Telfar. Much to their disappointment, Gap officially confirmed that Yeezy Gap will actually occur in place of the originally planned Telfar x Gap. Gap has clarified that Telfar will be financially compensated for the cancellation, but the schedule change is a missed opportunity all the same.

Interestingly, many have applauded Nigerian-British designer Mowalola Ogunlesi becoming design director of Yeezy Gap as a victory for black creatives. Telfar is also a black-owned brand, a fact that opens itself to speculation about whether or not the same praise would be elicited from the public if the partnership with Gap had actually transpired. This conjecture is further substantiated by the brand’s fan base’s anticipation for the prospective collaboration and eventual letdown when it did not come into fruition. Nonetheless, the possibility of a future partnership with Telfar has not been completely eliminated, as design samples for the intended unification are still in Gap’s possession. More importantly, Gap continuing to ally with black-owned brands will bring black creatives the mainstream prominence that they deserve.

Photo credit:

https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/kayne-west-yeezy-gap-collab-telfar http://www.telfar.net/collections/SS2018/lookbook/4

Report: Nia Hunt