The Telfar Shopping Bag: A Symbol of Progressivism
Telfar is a brand renowned for being affordable and inclusive while remaining prestigious. After 15 years in business, Telfar is being embraced by public figures such as Solange and Bella Hadid, proving that the brand is on the cusp of mainstream recognition. The label is rooted in inclusivity, as Liberian-American designer Telfar Clemens creates attire intended for all genders.
Telfar is a brand renowned for being affordable and inclusive while remaining prestigious. After 15 years in business, Telfar is being embraced by public figures such as Solange and Bella Hadid, proving that the brand is on the cusp of mainstream recognition. The label is rooted in inclusivity, as Liberian-American designer Telfar Clemens creates attire intended for all genders. One exceptional product exemplifies the company's mission statement, “not for you, for everyone”: the coveted Telfar bag, the creation that brought its label to prominence.
The Telfar shopping bag’s 2014 debut was met with widespread acclaim due to it being the first of its kind that simultaneously black-owned and gender-neutral. The bag’s groundbreaking success won Telfar the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, the prize money of which funded the creation of new, Bloomingdale’s-inspired bags of various sizes. Most emblematic of the bags’ inherent progressivism is Rep. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez’s enjoyment of them, which she proudly displayed on her Instagram. A politician reputed for championing social justice causes, Ocasio-Cortez commends Telfar for being a fellow New Yorker of color having earned such fame and success.
Telfar’s growing eminence is due in part to the political landscape influencing consumers’ perception of the label. The encouragement to support black business increases with each passing year, a growing number of fashion enthusiasts continues to experiment with gender expression through clothing, and now the peak of the Black Lives Matter movement has transformed the public’s understanding of societal racism. Thus, Telfar’s loyalty to uplifting it’s more marginalized demographics is intrinsic to its rising fame.
Photo Credits: Getty Images
Report: Nia Hunt
Fashion Trends To Feel And Look Good In This Autumn
However, at the same time we see bright, neon colors, leather looks and statement details, which proves that today's women do not need to submit to specific trends or stereotypes, but to live and dress without limits.
Each of the major fashion capitals has its own character: New York is the ideal place for up-and-coming, independent and cool designers, London stands out with its special, unlimited fashion trends, Milan presents, of course, luxury accessories, while Paris hosts the most spectacular shows. What stands out among the biggest trends for this year is that they are addressed to today's woman. This includes comfortable clothes and luxurious fabrics that aim to establish the idea that fashion has to do with feeling good about yourself. However, at the same time we see bright, neon colors, leather looks and statement details, which proves that today's women do not need to submit to specific trends or stereotypes, but to live and dress without limits.
Neon’s a Winner!
We are used to welcoming autumn with shades such as burgundy, emerald or dark purple. However, in 2019 the options in bright colors are endless. The looks on the catwalks, as well as on the streets were filled with neon colors a few months ago, which means that this season we are going to see many monochrome looks in these shades, as well as creative color-blocking.
Return of the Plaid!
The plaid returns for another year on the catwalks, but also in the street style looks, with the plaid trench coats and blazers being in the spotlight again. This year, we saw it in different styles and shades, with a strong British air. Choose a raincoat or a midi raincoat to achieve the perfect London look on rainy days - the options are endless. This season combines not only comfort, but also the freedom that every woman has to stand out at any time. Easy access to all the different trends of each season is enough to draw enough inspiration to refresh our wardrobe - and now we can more easily than ever.
Sports Chic!
Don’t let your figure hold you back if you want to wear sports clothing. You should always honour and love your body, regardless of its shape and size. Sports clothing is always in and it looks great as well as being comfortable. Curves shorts look great and will last through autumn.
Leather look!
The skin remains at the top this season, with the difference that it becomes more coloured. Shades of orange, red, green, blue and other bright colours will make their presence felt in the leather clothes of summer and autumn! And if you are worried about this fabric, because you consider it too ‘out there’, then maybe the proposals of the famous fashion houses will change your mind. So dare to wear it, especially in autumn, making appearances that will gain impressions. Ideal choices are leather coats or jackets, but also overalls or total leather outfits.
So whatever you choose to wear for the rest of the year, make sure it is something that makes you feel good and gives you purpose. You really do deserve to look and feel good, so get shopping and play around with those fashion trends of 2020!
RAISE Fashion
The fashion industry appears to be delivering on their promise of supporting black creatives with such emerging programs as the Black in Fashion Council and the Kelly Initiative. The most recent of these efforts is RAISE Fashion, a group dedicated to providing free mentorships to black fashion designers and entrepreneurs.
The fashion industry appears to be delivering on their promise of supporting black creatives with such emerging programs as the Black in Fashion Council and the Kelly Initiative. The most recent of these efforts is RAISE Fashion, a group dedicated to providing free mentorships to black fashion designers and entrepreneurs. RAISE’s very name is a declaration of its commitment to helping black talent succeed, as it is an acronym for the words “Respect, Advocate, Inspire, Support, and Empower.” Seventy fashion professionals will be educating selected participants on all facets of the industry, ensuring that mentees will be versatile in their careers regardless of their areas of concentration.
RAISE Fashion was born from the Black Lives Matter protests attended by such exalted authorities as Roopal Patel from Saks Fifth Avenue, Cushie’s owner and namesake Carly Cushnie, and Elizabeth von Der Goltz and Nayla Touma of Net-a-Porter. Which of these figures will be mentors in the project itself remains to be seen. Nonetheless, protests and diversity programs like RAISE Fashion demonstrate that the fashion industry's strides towards inclusivity come from a genuine desire to effect positive change. Furthermore, oft-ignored black designers and business owners will not only have an opportunity to bolster their careers, but working with such a plethora of high-fashion labels will also undoubtedly lead to their own brands gaining the same level prestige in the future.
Photo Credits: Dribble, Vogue
Report: Nia Hunt
Supima Design Competition 2020: A New Generation of Designers
The 2020 Supima Design Competition is shaping up to be a particularly inclusive one of its kind, as this year there is an emphatic drive towards racial diversity. Law Roach, the fashion expert who has advised of the likes of Zendaya and Kerry Washington, happily accepted his role as the host of the competition upon learning that Supima was working with historically black academic institutions.
The 2020 Supima Design Competition is shaping up to be a particularly inclusive one of its kind, as this year there is an emphatic drive towards racial diversity. Law Roach, the fashion expert who has advised of the likes of Zendaya and Kerry Washington, happily accepted his role as the host of the competition upon learning that Supima was working with historically black academic institutions. Roach’s excitement to help develop the careers of fashion newcomers only swelled at the prospect of supporting designers of color.
The contestants for the 2020 Supima Design Competition not only come from esteemed colleges and universities, but also present new ideas that are likely to revolutionize the fashion world. Hailing from the Rhode Island School of Design, Kyra Buenviaje has taken inspiration from the current coronavirus-ridden landscape to create dresses that flow down to the floor and pleated jackets. Meanwhile, Los Angeles’s Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising alum Sakura Mizutani channeled her fascination with nature into portraying the four seasons through sculpted blouses and fabric blouses. Originally studying mathematics and engineering, Terrence Zhou’s applied his areas of study to building elaborate fashions. Jennie Nguyen of Kent State put her valuing of sustainability into practice with her minimalist designs built from recycled material, and being named in Vogue as one of FIT’s most exemplary designers is a strong start to Jenny Feng’s career. Lastly, a recent graduate, Drexel University, print designer Amanda Forastieri has a particularly colorful interpretation of sustainability in her Utopia collection.
Photo Credits: Vogue, L.A. Times
Report: Nia Hunt
Billy Porter - the Centerpiece of Pose
Pose tells the story of LGBTQ ballroom culture in New York City during the late 1980s and early 1990s and has thus been applauded for being a television show with prevalent trans actors. A key player in bringing this historical scene to life is Billy Porter, who portrays the character Pray Tell.
Talk about a show-stopping look.
Pose tells the story of LGBTQ ballroom culture in New York City during the late 1980s and early 1990s and has thus been applauded for being a television show with prevalent trans actors. A key player in bringing this historical scene to life is Billy Porter, who portrays the character Pray Tell. Porter is renowned for his flamboyant, gender-nonconforming attire, which has overlapped between his onscreen and real life fashion sense.
Porter wearing an eye-catching green printed suit.
Outfitting him are the talented costume designers Lou Eyrich and Analucia McGorty, who took painstaking measures to exhibit Pray Tell’s vivacious demeanor. Eyrich and McGorty realized their artistic vision by collecting clothes from vintage shops and secondhand stores and transforming them into new, more extravagant ensembles. One interesting aspect of their creative process is that they often model outfits after those of the 1970s, demonstrating their attention to detail by recalling the show’s post-disco setting.
This yellow coat over printed silk blouse outfit commands.
Much of Pray Tell’s wardrobe includes garish hats, including a lavender top hat and green captain’s hat with the label “Yellow Cab.” Among the character’s iconic outfits are a vinyl trench coat, mixed-print silk robe, and most ostentatiously, a shimmering sequined dress complemented by blue and green feather jacket. Fans of the show have voiced their disappointment at Pose being snubbed for an Emmy nomination, and failing to consider awarding Eyric and McGorty is indeed a missed opportunity.
Photo Credits: PopSugar
Report: Nia Hunt
September : Fashion Week Looks The Same, But Is it?
We’ve come through the first waves of digital representation for fashion week amidst COVID19 - the rather quick approach was the result of safety precautions taken by the government to “Flatten The Curve” of what seemed to be an aggressive rise in infections, but more importantly, deaths.
Image provided by flare.com
Designers across the spectrum of fashion within the industry presented their creative take on Digital shows - amongst those who successfully adapted; Loewe, Balmain, Maison Margiela, Dior Men, Gabriela Hearst, and of course, who could forget Hanifa and their viral 3D show earlier this year.
The concept or idea of solely presenting collections on the runway, but digitally - honestly had many of us up in arms - the runway, the community, the art, has been rooted in the pride of sitting front row, being bombarded by photographers on the street for your overly thought out but carefully executed fashions, and of course, the day after “Who’s Who” post from bloggers and media outlets,and yet, we survived.
So now that we are looking at September (which has been shortened to 3 days the 14th -16th according to CFDA ) and continuing with the digital space, it’s to be expected that we will see a small return to physical shows and community while maintaining an emphasis on live streams and virtual shows.
Production companies, creative directors are all facing a very exciting time in fashion - there are no rules, the old way of doing things, for the moment, is suspended - even the calendar itself has no room in this innovative time.
From live look books, 3D runways, virtual reality as a means of attendance, and yes even live streams via your favorite social media platforms, the space for Collection Review is open to variety.
The intricate and anxiety inducing task of producing high caliber shows via the internet can be a game changer for many - the predicting of glitches, the testing of sites, overload back house prep, lighting, graphics, it's all still very complex - kudos to those doing this seamlessly, and a big “ You can do this” from us here at Access to those who are figuring it out along the way.
Whatever happens next in fashion, one thing is for sure, Fashion will remain the Best Friend we all need.
Fashion Meets Digital
Anifa produced a virtual catwalk, London fashion week was fully transformed to a digital platform and now black-owned resort brand elise x elisia is showcasing their new collection with 3D models. The New York-based brand is raising the bar in the fashion industry, truly proving how far technology could take us.
During the COVID 19 pandemic, many fashion companies have taken to digital platforms to highlight their new launches. Anifa had a virtual catwalk, London fashion week was completely transformed to a digital platform and now black-owned resort brand elise x elisia are introducing their new collection with 3D models.
The New York-based brand founded by Janel Livingston is centered on high-end beach and resort wear. With the adoption of 3D models and 3D backdrops based on the French Riviera, Livingston launched her Summer 2020 swimwear line. What makes this brand unique is the silhouettes of the bath suits that deviate from the standard style of bathing suits. Giving customers an edgier, more modern look. This brand is excellent for women who aspire to take their swimwear game to the next level with unique cuts and styles.
The Tidal Wave collection features a string bikini and cut off one piece. The name of the collection is a well-fitting the green-blue wave-like design on both pieces of the collection. This approach to premiering her swimsuit collection in the middle of the pandemic has raised the bar in the fashion industry, truly showing how far technology could take us. The collections are available now on the elise x elisia website.
Photo Credits: elisexelisia.com
Report: Lauren Tucker
7-20 is A1
7-20 is A1
Until the creation of the Fenty brand, she was known as the unprecedented pop star, Rihanna. Robin Rihanna Fenty is one of the most successful musicians of her time, as her passion for making music, talent for performing, and ability to connect with fans have made her a nonstop sensation in the industry.
It was not until she dipped her toes in a new pond that we realized there is much more talent than meets the eye. Rihanna has recently ventured into a new industry; fashion. With the conception of her fashion brand Fenty, in addition to her cosmetic brand Fenty Beauty, Rihanna explores her appetite for makeup and luxury fashion. The collections are just as unique and tasteful as you would expect them to be coming from Rihanna, with flavor and spunk that are too irresistible to pass up.
Thus far, Fenty has been known for its show stopping lingerie collection, titled Savage Fenty. The sexy, sophisticated yet fun pieces are high quality and compliment any body type. But, there’s a new Fenty in town, and her name is 7-20. In collaboration with Amina Muaddi, this fierce female duo captures the boldness and strength of women in modern shoe designs. The collection is especially admirable as it celebrates the creativity and genius of artistic women, and embodies the electrifying energy maintained throughout the entire Fenty brand.
With designs that include square toe soles, braided straps and mesh fabrics, the collection has the ability to fulfill the desire of every woman’s closet. One of the most admirable aspects of the 7-20 collection is the heel itself, the only piece of the different silhouettes that remains the same, designed to hold up each shoe and support the strong woman who is wearing it.
Though this is the last release of the Fenty Summer collection, it is the first ever release of shoes for the brand. The designs are breathable and allow the wearer to remain comfortable in the heat of summer, but by no means fall short of attraction or originality. It comes as no surprise that Rihanna and Amina’s creativity and brilliance have created Fenty’s newest, and perhaps most desirable, collection.
All photo's originate from the Fenty website.
Report: Alexandra Donnelly
How Inspiration from Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collections Revealed Today’s Society
Fashion is a powerful tool, especially when it comes to predicting the outcome of society.
Collections during fashion week have always been known for setting the trends for the upcoming seasons. They defined the landscape of style for years and have turned out some of the most iconic fashion statements of all time. However, with what we are experiencing now it has become a time in which designers are forced to become more conscious about their work, both politically and sustainably. Around late January to early March, shows were held for the Fall 2020 ready-to-wear collections. The themes, however, displayed a more serious and darker tone, ranging from saving our planet, to feminism and the switch between predator and prey, coincidentally resembling the current time we are experiencing.
Marine Serre’s Fall 2020 collection perfectly captured the essence of a world going into flames, but still revealed the hope she had in society into turning the tables to save society before the brink of destruction. She especially emphasizes the calm she tries to upkeep while the world is going crazy and trying to distract her from being creative. Serre’s focus for this collection was on the planet burning, both in the aspect concerning sustainability and the current chaos. The moon logo that defines her brand has been altered for this collection, as if it was affected by heat. The looks continued to personify a world burning with the use of sandy denim for even more of a burnt effect. Although Marine Serre’s collection was meant to personify how the world is currently bubbling, it is meant to be a transformation into a new community from this destroyed world. Similar to how society is right now, Coronavirus has made a huge impact on the world and now we live in a time where health and safety are the priority in order to reduce those infected and even killed.
Another Fall 2020 collection that resembled a more darker, serious tone was Rodarte, helmed by Laura and Kate Mulleavy. Drawing inspiration from Francis Ford Coppola’s Dracula, they put the emphasis on the prey instead. The show originally did not appear dark, invoking dainty polka-dot day dresses and pouf sleeves. As the show went on, however, the dainty quality turned up a notch and even turned a bit uncomfortable with the designs being bolder in their feminine and pastel colors. All of a sudden, the tone was changed and out came the dark, goth vibe consisting of capes, fringe, and blood red. This symbolized the transformation of prey into predators, which can be applied to many issues going on in today’s world. This collection was meant to represent a woman becoming “furiously alive,” aware of her surroundings and taking control. Especially with what’s going on right now, women have the power to take control of their lives and decide what's best for them.
Although no one could predict how the world and society would turn out right now, it is evident that these two Fall 2020 collections coincidentally revealed the more serious, yet powerful time that we are living in today.
Photo Credit: The New York Times, Vogue.
Report: Charlene Piccio
The CFDA Awards Are Still On
The CFDA Awards Are Still On
The COVID-19 global pandemic took a massive hit to the fashion industry, with shows and events being cancelled, and brands forcing to permanently close stores and file for bankruptcy. But as things start to reopen, some events are back on. This week, the CFDA awards announced that they would hold a virtual ceremony on Monday, September 14. They also announced that they would be adding two new categories to the ceremony, both celebrating international achievements. They are, Global Women's Designer of The Year, and Global Men's Designer of The Year. This is replacing the International Designer Award. There is one other change to this year's ceremony. Since this is a virtual event, and there is no red carpet, no honorees will be names. Past honorees have been massive stars in the likes of Jennifer Lopez and Janelle Monae.
“In this time of unprecedented challenge and change for our industry, we feel very strongly that it is important to recognize the nominees representing the best of fashion creativity,” Tom Ford, chairman of the CFDA, said in a press release. “We look forward to returning to an in-person celebration honoring the American fashion industry in 2021.”
Report: Anna Bechtel
One of the NBA's greatest traditions is back on.
One of the NBA's greatest traditions is back on.
The current global pandemic might have put almost everything on hold. However, several things have started to open back up, the most recent one being different sports. Baseball and the WNBA started their seasons this week. Unfortunately, not all sports have good news. The NBA has been hit with one bad news story after another. But the worst story? Probably the canceling of the pre-game fashion show, where the players would walk down a tunnel, showing off their ensembles. A new policy has forced players to show up to the games in their team uniforms.
"Considering the unique environment on the NBA Disney campus and warmer weather conditions, a different policy was put in place for players' arrival and entry into the arenas," a league spokesperson said, according to ESPN.
Many are not happy. “That is crazy," Chris Tucker told ESPN in reaction to the news. "I think that takes away [from] originally what getting dressed was all about. It wasn't even about the tunnel walk, it was more about getting dressed up and going to work. To me, it's like a mindset, getting dressed and getting ready to go to my game. It puts me in the mindset that I'm ready to work and helps me find my focus."
However, the disappointment was short-lived. On Monday afternoon, ESPN reported that it was initially “misinformed by a league spokesperson" about a final ruling on the dress code. Players actually will be allowed to wear…clothing from their own wardrobe to games, which would be an astounding sentence to read under any other circumstances. The bottom line: NBA pregame fits, briefly taken from us, are back, albeit with a modified dress code. The rule was enacted with the requirement that players wear more relaxed clothing.
Report: Anna Bechtel
Life is Short, Purchase The Bag
Life is Short, Purchase The Bag
With the summer still going on, you are probably still looking for that perfect summer purse. I have just the purse for you. With just the right size and name it will sure make it to your purse collection. The Jimmy Choo organization was established in 1996, with Mr Choo's niece, Sandra Choi, who had been going up plan in the East End atelier, going ahead board as Creative Director, a position she holds right up 'til the present time. Jimmy Choo's snapshot of popularity came in 1990, when the Princess of Wales, Lady Diana was spotted wearing his shoes, and nothing was ever the equivalent for him again. Although Jimmy Choo is known for his shoes his purses are even better. This new purse is called Mini Paris. The mini purse is sack in latte croc-decorated calfskin is as adaptable as it is exquisite. Built with a long chain crossbody tie, snap conclusion and metal clasp that frames the front central element, it in a split second includes a note of modernity and immortal intrigue to both your day and night gatherings. This mini purse comes in three different colors snow bunny white, bubblegum pink and hunter green. This purse would be great for a gift or even for yourself this summer.
Photo Credits: Jimmy Choo
Report: Tykaia Rose
Black-Owned Swimwear Brands to Support This Summer
Summer is here and it’s important for every woman to feel beautiful in their own skin. Support these amazing companies that offer some beautiful swimwear pieces that will leave you feeling confident and vibrant.
Want to look and feel your best this summer? Here are some great black-owned companies to make sure you are hot and ready for summer. All made by talented and gorgeous African American women.
Castamira Swim:
Founded by former model Chantel Davis, Castamira was made to magnify the beauty of your body. There are a large amount of one pieces, but there are plenty of two pieces as well. Made to fit your body like a glove and leave you looking fabulous.
Gia $198
Asherah Swimwear:
This collection is made to let your confidence radiate through you. Inspired by summer, designer Cheryl “Cejae” Jones creates a line that fits a woman's natural curve along with one-of-a-kind prints. Her collections set her apart from other collections and bring out a new idea of sexy to enjoy your summer the right way while looking good.
HENNA BIKINI COLORSCAPE FULL TOP: $105 BOTTOM $120
Xhaleswim:
Professional model, owner and designer Jessica Lee Wong is the founder of this handmade swimwear collection. This swimwear company is one of the best because of its variety of choices. They have pieces that are daring and sexy and some that are more modest yet still beautiful.
XhaleSugar Neon Yellow $95
MBM Swim:
Designer Marcia B. Maxwell’s pieces scream elegance. With her combination of clean cut lines and silhouettes, her suits are all about sophistication. Just like MBM Swim’s page says, “Swimwear for sophisticated women who never ask for attention, they command it.”
Discovery $140
Sixtwentyone Swim:
Afro-Caribbean swimwear made in Jamaica and inspired by its culture by founder Christie Harridon. Each and every swimsuit has beautiful intricate and unique designs, such as bright colors, animal print and more.
The Peak Monokini $68
Support these companies and look good while doing it. Happy summer!
Photo Credits: Pinterest
Report: Melissa Adragna
The 2020 CFDA Awards
The 2020 CFDA Awards
The 2020 CFDA Awards were originally slated for June 8 and would have been the first of its kind to be spearheaded by council chairman Tom Ford, but the COVID-19 outbreak has, of course, disrupted much of the event’s plans. Gone is the trademark opening ceremony, and with it the anticipated announcement of celebrity honorees.
The award show will be still be taking place online, however, and Ford has proceeded with accommodative changes. Efforts typically expended towards maintaining a physical venue will instead be channeled into supporting the countless designers affected by mandatory quarantine measures. The most radical change is the new dedication to racial equity in the fashion industry moving forward. A lack of diversity persists even in this year’s CFDA Awards, in which only four designers of color were nominated in the top American categories. CFDA and Vogue have begun remedying this issue by donating $1 million from their A Common Thread fundraiser to Icon 360, an organization providing relief to designers of color. Additionally, the emerging designer category has become more diverse, most notably with Christopher John Rodgers winning last year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
The CFDA will announce this year’s winners on September 14 via their website and social channels. The council’s own Tom Ford has thus far been nominated for American Designer of the Year for both menswear and womenswear.
Photo credits:
https://www.vogue.com/article/2020-cfda-awards-nominees-announced
https://cfda.com
Report: Nia Hunt
Reese Cooper’s Spring 2021 Collection
Reese Cooper is a unique and gifted soul and this is reflected in all his beautiful pieces he creates. Reese’s Spring 2021 Collection is a great representation of outdoors wear mixed with street wear filled with distinctive designs potentially opening up to a whole new world of fashion.
Reese Cooper has always been a designer with pure talent since his young age. He’s someone that filled his past with solo lunches at school, researching and saving up money to buy from one of his favorite fashion brands BAPE. From there he began to create a bright future for himself. Now today we are looking at his Spring 2021 fashion line that holds very unique pieces. There were designs filled with pockets, splashes of hunters orange and forest greens; a lot of outdoor wear vibes. Let's take a closer look at them, shall we? One favorite design of mine was this light blue dress that looked as if there was a scene in the woods imprinted on it. Truly stunning and different from your usual.
Other than the bright and beautiful hunters orange and dark greens we saw, there were also a lot of blues as well. We saw several long sleeve blue cover ups along with cargo pants that just scream outdoors. Each and every design was inspired by what he was feeling during the lockdown, after Cooper was feeling a little overwhelmed like many of us were feeling as well. He would drive down to a lake to clear his mind and soak up some nature and he wanted to represent that in this collection. This collection is a mix of street wear fashion, but also flexible enough to wear and enjoy the outdoors.
Interestingly enough, because of the recent pandemic, Cooper was unable to do the runway he originally planned. But it turned out to make it more real than it could’ve ever been. He was able to gather people closest to him, friends and collaborators and have this “runway” take place at a small steam in Thousand Oaks, California. Hence, the name of his collection being called “River Runs Through”. The turn of events went well with the theme of his collection.
A great documentary that may be worth the watch and shows Reese Cooper’s drive and dedication to his work is called “We’re not particularly talented, we just try hard.” Despite the name of the documentary, Cooper is most definitely talented. His collection is opening up doors to endless possibilities of what the world of fashion can look like. I believe this is only the beginning for Reese Cooper. Looking forward to more of his work!
Photo Credits: Vogue
Report: Melissa Adragna (@melissa_adragna)
Supporting Black Fashion Designer
It's always been important to support black designers, but amid a pandemic and sociopolitical crisis, these black artists and business owners need your support now more than ever!
Black fashion designers have played an integral role in the fashion history, from Patrick Kelly and Willi Smith, to Pyer Moss and Dapper Dan. However, these creative visionaries have not always had the moral and economic support that their white counterparts have. This is a common issue that a lot of minority designers have in the industry. In fact, some brands that had the potential to be sustainable ended up having to close their doors simply because a lack of funding, wholesale opportunities, etc. Think about it, how many black-owned brands hanging on the racks of Nordstrom, Barney’s and Neiman Marcus. They’re disproportionately outnumbered.
Nonetheless, I think that in addition to racially discriminatory practices, celebrities and other lovers of luxury brands should do a better job at supporting black designers. Instead of parading around in Chanel, Gucci and Givenchy, why don’t we start rocking Pyer Moss like it’s the best thing since Yves Saint Laurent? I think that “the culture” has done an excellent job at supporting brands like Telfar but we still have a long ways to go. Industry powerhouses play a significant role in the disproportionate success rates of black brands, but consumers play a more integral role in this issue than they think.
Photo Credit:
SB Shades - Celebrity Scope
Cushnie - Women's Wear Daily
Pyer Moss - Vogue
Report: Julian Randall
Art Meets Fashion
Dior’s Summer 2021 Men’s Collection is a harmonious fusion of art and fashion, brought to fruition by brand creative director Kim Jones and Ghanian artist Amoako Boafo.
Dior’s Summer 2021 Men’s Collection is a harmonious fusion of art and fashion, brought to fruition by brand creative director Kim Jones and Ghanian artist Amoako Boafo. What began in 2019 as both creatives meeting at the Rubell Museum in Miami and admiring each other’s work culminated in a collaboration that is, as described on Dior’s website, “a celebration of identity, of the power of creativity, of art’s ability to transport.”
Amoako Boafo’s paintings are an inspired basis for the Dior menswear collection, with pieces radiating in colors, patterns, and embroideries reminiscent of the artwork. The most noteworthy of these creations is a jacquard adorned with brushstrokes in emulation of the canvases in Boafo’s own studio. Dior proudly displayed their new collaborative collection in the form of a video exploring Boafo’s Ghanian studio and premiering the fashions themselves. The promotional videos were directed by Jackie Nickerson, with Chris Cunningham having edited and soundtracked the project.
Boafo’s alliance with Dior is quite the milestone in a career filled with accolades such as the 2017 Walter Koschatzky Art Prize. In fact, the Rubell Museum was one of several that housed his masterpieces. Boafo’s art consistently and brilliantly tackles the subject of toxic masculinity, so his translation of this concept to high fashion is both aesthetically pleasing and thought-provoking.
Photo credits:
https://www.dior.com/en_us/mens-fashion/shows/summer-2021-mens-collection
Report: Nia Hunt
Browne and Sumney
The sudden worldwide shift to Digital Fashion Weeks has engendered confusion and ambivalence among designers and fashion brands, particularly in regards to the content of their promotional videos.
The sudden worldwide shift to Digital Fashion Weeks has engendered confusion and ambivalence among designers and fashion brands, particularly in regards to the content of their promotional videos. The general conflict has been whether such videos should be visually appealing presentations or explorations of the inner workings of these fashion labels. Thom Browne appears to have chosen the former, as his newest video is that of musician Moses Sumney performing while wearing a white sequin wrap skirt from the upcoming Spring 2021 collection. Despite this video’s minimalist setting, Brown has striven to create a project that embodies innovation and artistry.
Sumney became acquainted with Browne at the 2018 Vanity Fair Oscars after-party while wearing a skirt suit by the designer. They developed rapport with each other over the course of several more fashion events, leading Browne to then propose his film idea to Sumney. Sumney, enamored with the 1924 Olympics-style skirt, eagerly agreed to the project—on the caveat that he would direct it.
Sumney’s involvement with the film perfectly complemented Browne’s grand artistic vision, as he brought local talent to a major fashion brand. He recruited a film crew in Asheville, including a personal friend debuting as a producer. Sumney comes from a humble background himself, and therefore he understands the struggle of navigating the glamor and exclusivity of the fashion industry while underprivileged. By employing a local film crew, he hopes to encourage major brands to extend opportunities to lesser-known creators.
Sumney also ponders the cultural implications of a black man proudly outfitted in high fashion especially during a time of such racial tumult. He contrasts his statuesque black body gleaming in the spotlight with the toppling of statues that deify America’s racist historical figures. Sumney admires the film’s subtle brilliance and gladly anticipates the discussion of race that will undoubtedly arise from audiences after viewing the final product.
Photo credit: https://www.vogue.com/article/moses-sumney-thom-browne-film
Report: Nia Hunt
No More Photoshoots Like Simone Biles'
After witnessing the backlash from Simone Biles Vogue cover I had to sit aside and ponder: Why is it so challenging for some photographers to capture the beauty of black skin/people? Our undertones, our glow, even the texture of our hair. So, like always I went looking for methods to best capture dark skin.
After witnessing the backlash from Simone Biles' Vogue cover I had to sit aside and ponder: Why is it so challenging for some photographers to capture the beauty of black skin/people? Our undertones, our glow, even the texture of our hair. I read an article a while ago about the racial bias built into photography in the New York Times by Sarah Lewis. In this article, I learned about the “Shirley card” used to calibrate colors when developing photos. These cards were white women with brown hair. It wasn’t until the mid-1990’s that Kodak introduced a Shirley card that included a White, Black, Asian, and later a Latinx model, attempting to help technicians better calibrate colors with varying skin tones.
There is a lack of education when it comes to capturing dark skin models. When taught about it in schools it is almost like black skin is a problem that needs to be solved. That white skin is the bases that normal is measured and anything but that is different.
So, like always I went looking for methods to best capture dark skin. One important tip is to determine the undertone of your model. This would enable you as the photographer to find backdrops or backgrounds that complement the undertone of the person being photographed. Aundre Larrow, a Brooklyn-based portrait photographer mentioned in a video with Motion that when choosing backdrops and clothing for a shoot it's important to determine the undertones to create harmony in the photo. In this same video, he mentioned the importance of reflectors when shooting with natural light. Many do not have the luxury of shooting in a studio and rely solely on natural light. In order to brighten the light we cannot control, Larrow suggests utilizing reflectors. This could be any large white surface like posterboards or shooting in a completely white room. This will bring light to areas that may be shadowed out which is very important when shooting with darker skin.
When lighting your talent with studio lights always include a hair light. This light will allow you to see where the model’s hair ends and where the backdrop begins. This will better enable us to capture the texture of the model’s hair. There’s a normalized idea that ember and blue lights should be used when photographing people with darker skin. This is not necessarily true. Yes, dark skin looks magnificent under these colored lights but, like the Directory of Photography for Insecure, Ava Berkofsky said there is no universal way to photograph black skin. So remember have fun and play with the color of the lightning to see what works best.
Photo Credit: VOGUE, nytime.com, Aundre Larrow
Report: Lauren Tucker
Jacquemus Debuts His Latest Collection, “L’Amour”
Simon Porte Jacquemus becomes a part of the rare designers holding a live show since the Coronavirus outbreak
Since the outbreak of Coronavirus, many fashion brands had to consider how to proceed operations when runway shows were temporarily put on hold. This led to industry-wide investigation into brands’ sustainability efforts and activism platforms, of which quite a few were criticized for. Although some fashion weeks have been cancelled and designers announce their own plans for collection calendars, there are a select few that are able and continue to do shows in person. One of the brands happens to be Jacquemus, who on July 16 debuted the collection, “L’Amour.”
Incorporating both menswear and womenswear, the show was held in a field of wheat just outside Paris in Us with the walkway winding through the fields. Invited to this exclusive event included close friends, family, and even editors, who all abided by the universal six-feet apart rule. The collection itself features the staple neutral palette Jacquemus has become known for, adorned with the strappy details that have been seen in past collections. It also showcased summer staples such as crop tops and midi skirts. The menswear of the show had similar hues and prints, reflective of their motive to be more sustainable. In doing this, Jacquemus has been able to slow down the process of making both menswear and womenswear for their team and reduce shows overall. The majority of the in-person fashion events were held in Milan, as the only other Parisian designer to hold a live show was Olivier Rousteing for Balmain.
The location for “L’Amour” has drawn similarities from Jacquemus’ Spring/Summer 2020 collection “Coup de Soleil.” This collection was also in a field, but full of lavenders, a touch that has defined a part of what makes Jacquemus the way it is. With simple, but universal designs in a mostly neutral palette and the occasional color, the brand’s designs have become popular among celebrities, influencers, and fashion lovers alike. Not only are their designs popular, but Jacquemus’ efforts when it comes to activism are also praised. Vocal during the recent Black Lives Matter events, Jacquemus has put themselves up there as a brand that is willing to fight for the cause and will continue to do so. A living aesthetic in itself, combined with its focus on being conscious about the world has helped Jacquemus become the brand it is today, and will continue to rise as the years go on.
Photo Credit: Hood Couture Mag, Galerie Magazine.
Report: Charlene Piccio
At the rise of Covid-19 many of us first questioned the timeline of fashion week and would we see the regular calendar continue - the question weighed over many of us for months! It was refreshing to see design houses and designers across the globe take advantage of the uncertainty and plow into production mode - thus my interest in Jerri Reid New York - The Black Designer based in Brooklyn New York wow’d instagram with his latest collection paying homage to the Black Is King film which debuted earlier this year in July. I was taken aback at quick of a turn round the young designer produced and released his well crafted designs reflecting some of the films most memorable moments.