No More Photoshoots Like Simone Biles'
After witnessing the backlash from Simone Biles Vogue cover I had to sit aside and ponder: Why is it so challenging for some photographers to capture the beauty of black skin/people? Our undertones, our glow, even the texture of our hair. So, like always I went looking for methods to best capture dark skin.
After witnessing the backlash from Simone Biles' Vogue cover I had to sit aside and ponder: Why is it so challenging for some photographers to capture the beauty of black skin/people? Our undertones, our glow, even the texture of our hair. I read an article a while ago about the racial bias built into photography in the New York Times by Sarah Lewis. In this article, I learned about the “Shirley card” used to calibrate colors when developing photos. These cards were white women with brown hair. It wasn’t until the mid-1990’s that Kodak introduced a Shirley card that included a White, Black, Asian, and later a Latinx model, attempting to help technicians better calibrate colors with varying skin tones.
There is a lack of education when it comes to capturing dark skin models. When taught about it in schools it is almost like black skin is a problem that needs to be solved. That white skin is the bases that normal is measured and anything but that is different.
So, like always I went looking for methods to best capture dark skin. One important tip is to determine the undertone of your model. This would enable you as the photographer to find backdrops or backgrounds that complement the undertone of the person being photographed. Aundre Larrow, a Brooklyn-based portrait photographer mentioned in a video with Motion that when choosing backdrops and clothing for a shoot it's important to determine the undertones to create harmony in the photo. In this same video, he mentioned the importance of reflectors when shooting with natural light. Many do not have the luxury of shooting in a studio and rely solely on natural light. In order to brighten the light we cannot control, Larrow suggests utilizing reflectors. This could be any large white surface like posterboards or shooting in a completely white room. This will bring light to areas that may be shadowed out which is very important when shooting with darker skin.
When lighting your talent with studio lights always include a hair light. This light will allow you to see where the model’s hair ends and where the backdrop begins. This will better enable us to capture the texture of the model’s hair. There’s a normalized idea that ember and blue lights should be used when photographing people with darker skin. This is not necessarily true. Yes, dark skin looks magnificent under these colored lights but, like the Directory of Photography for Insecure, Ava Berkofsky said there is no universal way to photograph black skin. So remember have fun and play with the color of the lightning to see what works best.
Photo Credit: VOGUE, nytime.com, Aundre Larrow
Report: Lauren Tucker
Vogue of Action
Vogue of Action
When my latest issue of Vogue came in mail, I was very excited. I noticed the cover was a white background with a very dark red rose. I thought it was strange considering it wasn’t a celebrity on the cover. It had common thread written at the bottom of it. If you want to learn more about this important cause listen up. Vogue was founded by Arthur Baldwin Turnue in 1892. From 1909 the founder of Condé Nast Publications, brought Vogue in transformed it into a women’s fashion magazine focused on beauty, composure, and etiquette in the rest is history. There recent issue that just came out has took a different approach it has become a beacon of hope for designers and creators out there. Vogue has partner with The Council of Fashion Designers of America. This new partnership has now viably brought over $4 million up in easing financing through A Common Thread, it is a video arrangement that will tell stories about how designer’s and their colleagues are adapting and how their organization have been influenced by the Covid-19 pandemic. With this assistance anybody can donate to the fund to help designers. To learn more information please pick up the latest issue of June/July Vogue now.
Photo Credits: Vogue
Report: Tykaia Rose
Edward Enninful Talks About The Importance Of Cultivating An Anti-Racist Agenda
“My mother told me to watch myself whenever I left the house. I still feel that same sense of anxiety today when I step out of my front door. Forty years on, nothing has changed.” -Edward Enninful
Last week, Edward Enniful, the editor of British Vogue watched a video of George Floyd, the 46-year-old African-American man who died in custody after an officer from the Minneapolis Police Department knelt on his neck for eight minutes and 46 seconds. He talks about how it made him feel, he said, “First of all, I was wracked by a feeling of intense sadness at the senseless loss of life. Then I saw the video footage of Amy Cooper, the white woman who called the police on Christian Cooper, a black man walking in New York’s Central Park, when he asked her to put her dog on a leash. That made me feel enraged. In the days since, I have been unable to shake a very specific feeling that will be familiar to black people around the world: that my life is somehow disposable.”
He talks about how lucky to have a privilege in his world, he said, “But as a man of colour, and as a gay man, I could not escape the sense that it doesn’t matter what you’ve achieved, or what you’ve contributed to society, your life can still feel worthless. When I step out of my door in the morning, to take a walk or to wander alone, I am always aware of increased personal danger because of the colour of my skin. These past few days I’ve gone between rage and sadness and fear. What these racist acts reveal, among many other things, is that we have a lot more work to do. Anybody who thinks we’re there, that we have created a society where everyone is equal – well, they’re wrong. Racism is a global issue. Racism is a British issue. It is not one that is merely confined to the United States – it is everywhere, and it is systemic.”
His mother always told me to watch himself when he left the house, he said, “As a black person, you learn from a very young age that you need to have your wits about you. Children are born without prejudice, but when I started school in London, I realised that I was different. Name-calling is only the very first thing you have to deal with, and there have been worse moments. Growing up in Ladbroke Grove, I saw black people persecuted, arrested, abused – this happened all the time. My mother told me to watch myself whenever I left the house. I still feel that same sense of anxiety today when I step out of my front door. Forty years on, nothing has changed.”
Report: Amanda Lou
“The Chiffon Trenches,” A Memoir By Andre L Talley, is Set to Release On May 19
“The Chiffon Trenches,” a memoir by @andreltalley is set to release on May 19. Mr. Talley’s book will discuss his experience in the fashion industry, working at Vogue and his tumultuous relationship with high-powered editor in chief at Vogue, Anna Wintour.
Photo: Cindy Ord/Getty Images for SCAD
Former creative director and contributing editor at Vogue Magazine, Andre Leon Talley, is releasing his memoir entitled The Chiffon Trenches on May 19, 2020. Talley recently interviewed with Daniel Bates at dailymail.com, discussing the details of the book along with some very detailed information regarding his friendship with Vogue’s editor in chief, Anna Wintour. Prior to this interview, Mr. Talley had mainly spoken positively about his experience at Vogue and as Anna Wintour’s dear friend. Nonetheless, several sources have noted that Talley’s time working in high fashion consisted of many brutal, unjust and cruel moments.
In order to fully understand his experience in the fashion industry, it’s important to know his background. The former editor was raised primarily by his grandmother, in North Carolina where he attended the historically black North Carolina Central University and graduated with a degree in French Literature. He then received a Master of Arts in French Literature from Brown University, which he notes as being one of the most liberating times of his life. Prior to attending Brown, Talley had already been obsessing over the glossy pages of French Vogue, read a lot of literature surrounding fashion history and was set to become an editor once realizing he could have success in fashion journalism. After graduating with his master’s degree, he moved to NYC and worked a series of jobs until he worked his way up, becoming the first black male creative director at a Conde Nast publication.
Photo: AFP/Bryan Bedder
When Wintour appointed Talley as creative director at Vogue, the two started developing a very close relationship. According to dailymail.com, Anna even expressed concerns about Andre Leon Talley’s health to the extent of scheduling an intervention for his weight. However, in the interview, the former editor notes that Anna Wintour is “not capable of simple human kindness.,” and that their “decades-long friendship ended because he was too old, overweight, and uncool.” Andre Leon Talley hasn’t been the only person speaking out on his experience at Conde Nast. Other industry sources within the industry, such as Ralph Rucci, recently made an Instagram post stating that he too had emotional scars from his interactions with the Ice Queen. All of the recent news surrounding Mrs. Wintour and her relational dynamics with those she was once very close with raises questions about if The Devil Wears Prada, a film whose main character is intended to emulate the role of Anna Wintour, is an accurate reflection of high fashion work culture. In Talley’s interview with dailymail.com, he states that although there was no distasteful tossing of coats to assistants, many of the staff were met with great trepidation while working with Wintour.
But Talley’s relationship with her is only a portion of what will be highlighted in The Chiffon Trenches. The memoir will also discuss how he’s essentially been blacklisted from the who’s who of high fashion because he made the decision to leave Vogue due after hitting a “glass ceiling.” Talley saw that there was no room for him to grow and has gone on to pursue other curatorial and journalistic endeavors. He currently lives in Westchester Country, where he lives what he describes as a fairly lonely life. One of the benefits of Andre Leon Talley speaking openly about his relationship with Wintour and the industry at large is that people who otherwise wouldn’t be involved in the conversation, are now involved. It’s further democratizing the industry and I’m curious to see how it responds.
Report: Julian Randall
Vogue And The CFDA Team Up to Make History.
Vogue and the CFDA, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, have teamed up to raise awareness and protect the future names in the retail business.
As the world feels like it may be crumbling, the fashion industry has been taking a stand to fight against the global pandemic, COVID-19. Vogue and the CFDA, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, have teamed up to raise awareness and protect the future names in the retail business. A Common Thread, the fashion fund originally created for relief efforts in regards to 9/11, is doing their part to keep the industry on its feet as the world fights COVID-19 together.
This relief effort is not only a way to expand the possible income of donations for those who cannot maintain their businesses, but an inside look on designers who want to be able to fulfill their dream. A Common Thread is giving these designers a chance to speak on a national platform and discuss their struggles throughout the craziness that is the world today. Designers are able to apply for this fund if they find that they are eligible and give a brief statement on how this charitable organization can impact their business.
Giving small designers the opportunity to represent themselves in collaboration with an iconic organization such as Vogue, adds a little positivity to the struggles we are all facing. Saks Fifth Avenue, Coach Foundation, Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation, and Michael Kors are just some of the well established businesses that have come in to support this cause. Even though we all may be sporting our best pair of sweats as we wait this pandemic out at home, we all know how confident and radiant we feel when we throw on our favorite pair of jeans. In a time where fashion may not be our top priority, Vogue and the CFDA are asking for our help in support of those who really need it.
Look out for the June/July issue of Vogue featuring a Common Thread on its cover, you won’t want to miss it. If you’re looking to support a Common Thread or send in an application, you can reach the donation page at: https://cfda.com/programs/designers/cfdavogue-fashion-fund
Photo Credit: Vogue.com
Report: Kaitlin Gallagher
The History behind Vogue Portugal and the Brand
Despite there being a lot of controversy with this idea of exploiting a pandemic, there is still an agreement a lot of people can come to which is what Vogue Portugal does take their covers to the next level.
Vogue Magazine launched its first issue on December 17th, 1892 for 10 cents each. Originally being an upscale and luxury lifestyle journal capturing the lives of the elite in New York City, Condé Nast purchased Vogue. Completely transforming it into a women’s fashion, lifestyle and beauty magazine, it has grown into a monthly publication read by millions around the world. Establishing its first international magazine in 1916, Vogue has continued to spread its impact to the fashion industry by creating over 20 more international magazines including Vogue Portugal.
Prior to its initial launching in October 2002, Vogue Portugal began its licensing a year before under Cofina Media — a Portugese Media conglomerate. There was a preview issue presented to Condé Nast during the process of its creation. When being published as a magazine, Condé Nast assists in the modeling of the first issues due to publishing houses distribution of the titles as a licensee. Paula Mateus overtook the role as Editor-in-Chief for 15 years, along with her committed team at the magazine. This is not only an accomplishment, but an impressive and talented skill as being the head of one of the most popular fashion magazines in the world, isn’t so easy. After doing so, Condé Nast moved Vogue Portugal from its publications under Cofina Media to LightHouse Publishing which was already under the issuing of GQ Portugal for a year and a half. As a result of this change, there was a brand new establishment of a team which included Editor-in-Chief. José Santana and Sofia Lucas, two very close artistic and talented friends for over 20 years, both worked under Cofina Media. Lucas was the Art Director for the magazines being produced, and Santana began as a designer. Remaining alongside each other in the industry, Santana was given the position as the Art Director for Vogue Portugal and GQ Portugal, which was very well deserved. Having such a special friendship allowed them to combine their own strengths and expertise into launching the creation of LightHouse Publishing together. Having years of knowledge, being so experienced in the field of publishing, and already having previously worked with Condé Nast, they were more than the perfect fit for taking on the role.
It should be noted that Mateus, Santana, Lucas, and their team have brought personality, life, and creativity over the years to every page flipped through in Vogue Portugal. Despite Vogue being known as one of the top fashion magazines in the world, this brings the idea to people that their magazine should not reflect the current issues in the world today. The cover of the April 2020 magazine for Vogue Portugal captured by Branislav Simoncik, is of a man and a woman, Bibiana Baltovicova and Adam Bardy, kissing through their surgical masks. While this reached a topic of controversy among some, a fashion magazine is not just a report on the latest trends and runway reviews. There are other issues facing the world, people, and the economy. Vogue Portugal released a “Planet Earth is the Trend” cover in September 2019 to highlight sustainability and bring awareness. In April 2020, there was also the “Freedom On Hold. COVID-19, fear will not stop us.” Haters will always misjudge and have their opinions towards people, brands, or companies that derail the idea of being conventional and sticking to a specific stereotype. Going beyond the traditional cover everyone normally expects, Vogue Portugal brings the importance to trends and news not just on the runway, but off of it as well.
In addition to being such a dominating force in the fashion industry, Vogue Portugal’s charm is more than what people see on the cover. Behind every photo is a team that works to curate an emotion and reflect a form of art. Anybody can take a picture, format a layout, upload it, and call it their magazine, but Vogue Portugal views their work with heart, pride, and motivation to never settle for mediocre ideas. Compared to other international Vogue magazines, each and everyone one of them have their own style that reflect their identity and character. Soon after the line up, set up of photoshoots, and pages are laid out and settled within 3 weeks, the printing process begins. Once sent to the printer, copies and prints are then dispersed to the distributor and subscribers. This is the moment that all subscribers to the magazine have been waiting for the most. Once distributors receive this, they are brought to be displayed in newsstands. Although all Vogue magazines have continued to stay true to their original physical forms, they all have digital versions to their editions, which began several years ago for Vogue Portugal.
Photo Credit: Vogue Portugal
Report: Pamela Valdez
Continuing to remain diverse, influential, and relevant, it is important to listen to readers, critics, haters, and fans. Vogue Portugal delivers content in response to always evolving themselves and leaving behind the idea that they must focus on physical fashion such as clothes, shoes, and accessories, but instead to incorporate that and issues around the world into a form of art to surpass the expectation of readers. Being a monthly magazine means that the team is not only putting full energy and ambition towards their work, but making sure that every cover, word, and page leaves them just as proud as the last month.
Celebrity Stylist: Dress To Kill
They say "dressing well is a form of good manners", these ladies have perfect etiquette.
Chiara Capitani
She’s described by The Coveteur of the queen of the “new wave of fashion girls who effortlessly mix skate labels into their wardrobe.” Her closet goes from streetwear brands such as Thrasher, Supreme, and Anti Social Social Club to Loewe and Louis Vuitton. But thats not all, she can on anyway be seen wearing either some of the rarest sneakers, or show stopper heels. She does not call herself a “stylist,” she is an image consultant that has works with brands all across the board and credits her biggest success as working with Vogue Man but her dream would be to work for Prada Sport. Read More
Anna Katsanis
Anna Katsanis is a Greek born and United States raised, New York based stylist who's work can be found throughout different editorials and fashion advertising. Her love for fashion came from film and fashion designs, some of which you can see reminiscent in her work. She has worked with Harpers Bazaar, Interview Magazine, Neimans and Refinery 29 alike and is the face behind the incredible style of Laverne Cox.
Newheart Ohanian
Newheart Ohanian began her career in styling after working for several years in the fashion industry, deciding to shift her focus and try out freelance fashion styling. She attributes much of her knowledge and experience to studying apparel and textile design in Florence and Milan. Her love of storytelling through visual imagery makes her invaluable to her clients and made her the perfect women to handle the job of styling for Beyonce’s critically acclaimed Lemonade project.
Ade Samuel
Ade started her work in the fashion industry as an intern at Teen Vogue, which because of her hard work eventually allowed her a job as a fashion assistant. With these jobs, she was allowed a platform to meet some of the most influential stylists in the industry and she would volunteer to do little jobs like work on photoshoots. She now works for the likes of Nicole Richie, Christina Aguilera and Miley Cyrus and Big Sean. But her work does not stop there, shes also introduced her own shoe line, Ade Samuel Shoes, a dream shes had for a long time. At 27, shes new in the game, but working harder than many.
Charlie Brianna
Charlie Brianna’s bio describes her as having “timeless style driven by an unparalleled imagination.” At the young age of 22, she has already worked on many editorials, red carpets, video shoots and personal shopping. Her work includes work with celebrities such as P. Diddy, Chris Hemsworth, Nicki Minaj and Brandy Norwood.
Mel Ottenberg
Mel Ottenberg is described in Vanity Fair as being a “styling veteran,” because of working with stars such as Brittany Spears and Pamela Anderson. But his most recognized work is done with pop superstar Rihanna. He does all of her red-carpet ensembles and tour costumes. He says he fell into styling by accident and then after doing great his first time, started writing letters to photographers such as David LaChapelle requesting to work with him.
Nini Nguyen
Nini Nguyen is a fashion stylist with a love of fashionable and chic individuality. This is exuded throughout all her works in which she shows how clothes SHOULD lay and be used to enhance a women s body. She started off at Banana Republic and Neiman Marcus and eventually advanced to Oscar de La Renta and Barneys New York. Her styling Philosophy is that “anyone can look like a million without spending a million and believes in buying less but investing in quality pieces that will last forever.”
Credits: Imani C., Access Public Relations Intern
Links We Love - No.4
The latest and greatest links from this past week & more...
The links we love from last week and Memorial Day Weekend. Read. Learn. Know.
Life Lessons from Naomi Campbell
"Here are some of her wisest, sassiest and hilarious moments."
(via @hunger)
The Statement Pieces Spotted on the @LouisVuitton Cruise 2017 Runway
"A true obsession of Nicolas Ghesquière and the house’s creative director for accessories Camille Miceli"
(via @vogue.fr)
Eva Chen's top 5 tips to excel on Instagram
"How can fashion brands excel on Instagram? BoF spoke to Eva Chen, Instagram’s head of fashion partnerships, to identify five principles."
(via @BoF)
This stunning Kenya travel diary will have you itching to book your own trip.
"THE FOUNDER OF NEEDLE+THRÆD MEETS THE WOMEN WHOSE HANDIWORK GROUNDS HER BRAND."
(via @ManRepellar)
How to pronounce Moschino, Miu Miu and more designer names
"Master fashion speak with a little help from Harper's Bazaar"
(via @bazaaruk)
At the rise of Covid-19 many of us first questioned the timeline of fashion week and would we see the regular calendar continue - the question weighed over many of us for months! It was refreshing to see design houses and designers across the globe take advantage of the uncertainty and plow into production mode - thus my interest in Jerri Reid New York - The Black Designer based in Brooklyn New York wow’d instagram with his latest collection paying homage to the Black Is King film which debuted earlier this year in July. I was taken aback at quick of a turn round the young designer produced and released his well crafted designs reflecting some of the films most memorable moments.