Browne and Sumney

The sudden worldwide shift to Digital Fashion Weeks has engendered confusion and ambivalence among designers and fashion brands, particularly in regards to the content of their promotional videos. The general conflict has been whether such videos should be visually appealing presentations or explorations of the inner workings of these fashion labels. Thom Browne appears to have chosen the former, as his newest video is that of musician Moses Sumney performing while wearing a white sequin wrap skirt from the upcoming Spring 2021 collection. Despite this video’s minimalist setting, Brown has striven to create a project that embodies innovation and artistry.

Sumney became acquainted with Browne at the 2018 Vanity Fair Oscars after-party while wearing a skirt suit by the designer. They developed rapport with each other over the course of several more fashion events, leading Browne to then propose his film idea to Sumney. Sumney, enamored with the 1924 Olympics-style skirt, eagerly agreed to the project—on the caveat that he would direct it.

Sumney’s involvement with the film perfectly complemented Browne’s grand artistic vision, as he brought local talent to a major fashion brand. He recruited a film crew in Asheville, including a personal friend debuting as a producer. Sumney comes from a humble background himself, and therefore he understands the struggle of navigating the glamor and exclusivity of the fashion industry while underprivileged. By employing a local film crew, he hopes to encourage major brands to extend opportunities to lesser-known creators.

Sumney also ponders the cultural implications of a black man proudly outfitted in high fashion especially during a time of such racial tumult. He contrasts his statuesque black body gleaming in the spotlight with the toppling of statues that deify America’s racist historical figures. Sumney admires the film’s subtle brilliance and gladly anticipates the discussion of race that will undoubtedly arise from audiences after viewing the final product.

Photo credit: https://www.vogue.com/article/moses-sumney-thom-browne-film

Report: Nia Hunt

Gucci and Prada Will Show Their New Collections Virtually

Milan’s governing body for fashion, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, has announced the schedule of designers that will be presenting their latest collections as part of a digital fashion week in July, as a replacement for the traditional fashion shows that have been cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic. The schedule includes some of the most heavyweight Italian labels: Prada, Gucci, Ermenegildo Zegna, Missoni, and Salvatore Ferragamo are among the brands who are confirmed to present. Some brands will present Spring/Summer 2021 collections, while others will focus on Cruise and pre-collections.

However, many of Milan’s most revered names are also notably absent. At the time of writing, Marni, Fendi, and Giorgio Armani are absent, while labels including Bottega Veneta typically opt out of the men’s Summer shows in favour of presenting in September.

Since lockdowns were enforced as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, all of the major fashion capitals have been forced to find new ways of allowing designers to present. London Fashion Week was replaced by a digital portal which was met with a lukewarm response from press and buyers, though some designers did find ways to create excitement.

The Paris menswear shows, which should have taken place last week, will be replaced by a virtual event titled Whispers of Paris, due to take place from July 9-13. As of yet, the list of participating designers has not been confirmed. The Milan shows run from July 14-17, with the Prada show taking place at 14:00pm CEST on July 14 and the Gucci presentation at 14:00pm CEST on July 17. The full schedule can be viewed at the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana website.

Y/Project is the most recent brand to share its SS21 collection, alongside its plans to pivot to a more sustainable approach.

Report: Amanda T Lou